From Shark Bay south to Geraldton

The first real civilisation you come to, around a
bend, is the sudden sight of deep green fields of young wheat and buildings near the road. Here is the evidence that this season will be kind to the farmers. This is the northern-most range for cropping, and it looked as though every available corner has been planted to recoup some of the losses of the past several years of drought. Our next sojourn was at Kalbarri, a lovely little place where the Murchison River squeezes out between the cliffs after cutting a winding path through the Kalbarri National Park. More gorges again, different forms and geology, always worth the effort. We had made contact with Helen’s sister Ann who lives in Geraldton by this stage, and arranged to back track a bit after Kalbarri, and to visit an interesting Bush Heritage property called Eurardy. Ann has spent many days over some years there, as a volunteer, mapping the vegetation and helping to return an old overworked property to its natural state. We had two nights at Kalbarri, with Bill & Jill in the caravan park, and walks along the cliff tops, and a not to be missed hilarious evening at Findlay’s – an outside BBQ fish place run by local fishermen (we think) with a very droll sense of humour.

Eurardy was very special, and by this time the wild flowers were beginning to come on strong. Lovers of native plants applaud this place, which is a safe haven for threatened flora, and the young couple Paul & Leanne who are currently improving the place do a great job. Bush Heritage is an interesting concept and it is worth a quick Google to find out more about it. Basically there are about twenty properties across the country that have been purchased so they can be returned to bush. (Helen’s blog post on Plants has more detail)

Overcast skies were the norm, and with the first scatterings of rain we made our way down to Geraldton, good food, grog and home comforts. We had been hoping we would be able to take a trip across to the Abrolhos Islands that lie just 60kms offshore, in Graeme and Ann’s fine new 800 KW jet diveboat that Graeme has designed himself. Sadly the weather for seven days has been cold and wet and that trip will have to be postponed indefinitely. Instead we have enjoyed the delights of Geraldton, and there are many. This is a vibrant town that is being developed as if there is no tomorrow, but at its heart it has everything in good measure. The National Trust has set aside the little hamlet of Greenough, about 30kms south along the road to Perth. This is a delight and well worth a visit. It was last inhabited in the 1960’s, but it is a largely intact village, once the administrative centre of the region, where you find two churches, courthouse, police quarters and gaol, shops, convent, and two schools, all built in stone with shingled roofs, and in one place. Nearby there is the Hampton Arms where a pint can be had. If you squint and cock your ear to the landlord and his midlands accent you could easily be in Staffordshire (but sadly without the real ale). There is however an abundant collection of good second hand books for sale.

And so, after ten days now, we have cleaned out the van, fixed this and that, fuelled up at a reasonable price ($1.85), watched about ten DVD movies, and are ready perhaps tomorrow for the next step along the path that now turns for home. The wild flowers are hitting the headlines here, and we are looking forward (with a little trepidation) to the Anne Beadell “Highway” that will take us 1300kms east across the continent. When that is completed we will pop out of the desert at Coober Pedy and turn towards Adelaide. Helen’s sister Margie, and Paul, will be giving us some well earned comforts before we finally get back into Victoria. I am not sure we are ready to leave this wonderful west coast, and to wind down this journey. It is catching. So beware, if any of you are giving thought to becoming grey nomads!