Coral Coast : Exmouth and Ningaloo

Nanutarra Roadhouse couldn’t tempt us to buy diesel at $2.35, and as we had filled up at Tom Price at $1.93 we were content to cruise our way gently out of the Pilbara and through the Giralia Range, towards Exmouth, home of the Defence forces and a new resort in the making that reminded me of the Costa Brava in the 1960’s. Thank you Novotel and others. It will make a big difference to the local economy of course, but it brings with it enormous pressure to exploit the tourist potential of the Ningaloo Reef. We find the battle is now on.... but more of that to come. Pulling into the visitor centre in Exmouth, a little tired, we were approached by an attractive couple wearing their sunnies, breezily hailing us across the car park. We were both cranking back through the new chum list trying to place them. “Have we met before?” I asked. The lady peeled off her glasses and revealed a familiar grin “yes, we’re related!” she replied. Perhaps we’ve been on the road too long! There were Sue Clark and her friend Nick, telling us they had been following our travels with interest from this blog, and they were two days into their own 3 month vacation from Perth, to meet up with Heaton & Jen Clark in Broome; they are doing the coastal tour from Darwin.

The countryside is uplifted seabed, the Coral Coast. Where you walk up the ridges and gullies, the imprint of corals lie all around. Swimming with the whale sharks is the big attraction, and several whale sharks and hump back whales have apparently been spotted. The cost of frolicking in this manner is up to $450, which we thought too much to swallow. We travelled southwards down the coast, marvelling at the colour of the water inside the reef. Tall breaking rollers thunder in the distance, and spouting whales can be seen beyond, on their migration northwards. By the end of July the whale shark migration will have stopped for another year, until next April when the coral blooms again. With a gentle sea breeze and clear skies we have settled down for the next sojourn of a few days.

Within moments of arriving out of the National Park onto Ningaloo Station we struck up a conversation with a couple who filled us in on the dynamics here. They have been coming for many years along with several other families. The whole coast line for about 20 kms south is dotted with groups of caravans and tent sites nestled right into the dunes, within 5 metres of the waters’ edge at high water in some places. Apparently government is on the war path to have everyone moved back 200 metres into a caravan park, arguing that other conservation values have to be applied. Strangely, in the wings, resort developers are lobbying to construct two resorts along this coast. These regulars, some have been coming for 30 years (and it has to be said the dunes look in good shape to us), have just held a meeting of 300 or more, with politicians and the whole deal. This morning the letter of concern that was drafted was aired on ABC radio, arguing that this is the last place a traditional Australian way of holiday making can be enjoyed anywhere, and it should be made a heritage place. They have a point.

Today we have borrowed our new friend’s kayak and paddled about a kilometre out towards the breakers. A large ray, about 1.5 metres, keeping about 10 metres away, circled the kayak, whilst a turtle also swooped away from me, so fast. With the rollers now really loud and the water changing to a deep inkier blue at about 30 metres depth, you cast your eyes this way and that. Alone, really, perched on top of a flimsy wobbling attractive green and blue thing. There is a clear floor in the kayak and you can see right down beyond the sharks, to the bottom. With a delighted shiver it is time to turn around and head homewards with the breeze to carry you back.